Malus 'Ashmeads Kernel' | Apple Tree
Nearly 300 years old and still regarded as one of the best late dessert apples. The yellow flesh is crisp and the flavour is rated as superb. Scab resistance is good and the fruit has excellent keeping quality. Fruit size is medium, yellowish-green, mostly covered with mid-brown russet.
- Supplied As: Bare Root
- Height on Arrival: 1.2-1.5m Height can vary depending on when you purchase your tree, and what rootstock and variety combination you buy.
- Age: 2 Years with 4 Year Rootstock
- Rootstock: M26
- Eventual Height & Spread: 3m x 3.5m
Dwarfing rootstocks produce smaller trees than the one grown on its own roots. Some rootstocks have a greater dwarfing effect than others, with M27 producing the smallest tree. While having a smaller tree may sound like a negative, it is actually highly beneficial! Dwarfing trees will crop earlier in their lives; placing more energy into their fruiting instead of vegetative growth. Nonetheless, some dwarfing rootstocks, such as M26 and M27, need permanent staking to make sure that they aren't uprooted by strong winds.
Your fruit tree will only produce fruit if their flowers have been pollinated. This is usually done by pollinating insects, which will transfer pollen from one flower to another. Honeybees, the main pollinating insect, will travel several miles in search of blossom. So if there exists another apple or crabapple within that radius it will most likely bear fruit.
Some apple trees are self-fertile, while others need a pollination partner from the same or neighbouring pollination group. Although self-fertile varieties form fruit without the help of a pollination partner, a pollination partner will still greaten their yields. Triploid trees cannot pollinate other trees, but they can be pollinated by another, and crabapples can pollinate apple trees.
- Pollination Group: 4
- Self-Fertile: No - Triploid
- Harvesting Period: Later
- Estimated Time to Cropping: 2 Years
- Estimated Time to Best Yields: 5 Years
- Uses: Eating Fresh, Juicing, Cider-Making
We have developed an eco friendly polypot that is currently in use across our 9 litre range. This polypot has less than 20% of the plastic used by a regular pot, and is importantly recyclable. Polypots also prevent root spiraling, encouraging a healthier root system.
All trees arrive in an extra thick cardboard box with a clamp to hold their pot in place. This prevents them from moving around on their journey.
Nursery staff will wrap the roots of our bare root trees and use compost to keep them moist during transportation. This extra protection prevents them from drying out, allowing for a flying start. We also use the same specialised box that our potted trees have to keep them nice and secure as they make their way to your home.
Bare root and containerised trees have differing planting requirements, detailed below:
- Watering: Bare root trees should have their roots soaked in water for up to 2 hours before planting, while with containerised trees, it is important to drench their root ball before planting.
- Pruning: Another difference is that for bare root trees, it is useful to prune their woody roots back a few inches. However, for containerised trees, you should free any spiralized roots growing around their rootball's circumference.
- Planting: With bare root trees, you should dig a hole to enable the graft point to be above the soil, while with containerised trees, the pot should sit no lower than an inch below the ground.
Bare root and containerised trees also share planting requirements, detailed below:
- With both, you should dig a hole that is twice the radius of their rootball. Stake your trees no more than 2 - 3 inches from the stem, and make sure that they are pointing away from the prevailing wind.
- Fill the planting hole with a mix of compost and garden soil, finishing with fertiliser and mycorrhizal fungi. Take care to not compress the soil.
- Once you are happy with your efforts, give your tree a generous watering.
- Add mulch on top (this can be bark and wood chippings, compost, manure, leaf-mould, and stones), and ensure that these do not touch the stem of the tree.
- Tie the stake to your tree (and leave space for growth), and place a rabbit guard around your tree to protect it from harmful pests.
- Apply fertiliser and replace decomposed mulch come spring. When autumn arrives, remove fallen leaves to prevent the risk of disease. You should also make sure that the ties are not rubbing your tree.
- Hardiness: Apple trees can be found growing in far colder regions than the UK, and therefore its mild winters will not affect your tree. One issue that can affect fruit trees is frost-damaged blossom, but this is rarely the case with apples that flower late.
- Position: In the UK, the greatest barrier to successful fruiting is a lack of sunlight, so be sure to plant your apple tree in full sun. Choosing a sheltered location will help prevent uprooting and allow your tree to leverage more resources into fruiting.
- Soil: Soil types can be an unwelcome confusion as many plants will adapt to their conditions. Nonetheless, less than ideal conditions will certainly limit your tree’s growth. Waterlogged soils will starve your tree of oxygen, which plays a key role in photosynthesis; causing its roots to rot and creating an optimal environment for disease.
|Needs Ericaceous Compost?||No|